Capri - Home of the rich and famous

Ever since emperor Tiberius choose Capri as his leasure island, it has drawn the rich and the famous. I am not sure why, because there are plenty of other islands that have a fancy cave, and are surrounded by steep clifss. But I suppose that part of being famous is giving the paparazzi something to write about, so that that you actually stay famous. Also for the papparazi it is convenient, as they dont need to stalk every single islands, but they can just focus on one.

Capri was a really bad anchorage. The location where we would like to anchor was swarmed by little boats. While they left for the night, they still took up precious space during the day. The anchorage we finally took had a lot of swell, and little wind. This causes SaltyPaws to align sideways with the waves. And although not a monuhull. Still some rocking went on during the night. If can report however, that the plants stayed safely in their spot. We ended up being anchored with a field of super yachts. As if there is no global warming, they kept themselves bathed in lights, all trhoufh the night. We also witnessed a helicopter fly over, but we couldn't see anyone being droped down on the deck. When we departed, we sailed next to a deathstar like boat for a while, and one of the guests was regarding us from the top deck pool¹.

1I am sure that there was another pool on this yacht. Pools seldom come by themselves on this type of boat.

The dark side of Stromboli

Yes, SaltyPaws is actually approaching an active volcano

Stromboli is a sight to behold, and it is written in all tourist guides, so it must be true. We found a good anchorage, and while the chain was in some large volcanic boulders, Excalibur was snugly dug in, as confirmed by a snorkel over. This also confirmed that there was currently no lava flow in the area. Even a trip line would have a hard time pulling up Excalibur, once covered by black solid lava.

Where we anchored, the waves and swell where low, and the wind subsided to just a few knots. While these are the conditions that you would like at an anchorage, I could not sleep very well this night. The beauty raved about in the brochures is there, brochures do not write about is that sleeping so close to molten lava, in a volcano that could conceivably erupt at any moment¹ is somewhat unnerving. The anchorage was far away from civilization, and this was one of the few times that the land was completely dark. Somehow a black volcano can look a shade darker than ordinary dark. A million stars where visible² from the deck, however, without the moon, these failed to illuminate the night.

Earlier in the day we used the little SaltyPaws to make a round around Stromboli, and we paused at the side where the lava comes streaming down. From a safe distance, and in the refreshing azure water, we watched new land being formed, one rock at a time. The lava would come down the steep cliff like a thick honey, but slower, and leaving a trail of smoke. At some point, the lava would cool enough as to loose its stickiness, and would then from large boulders. these rocks would race each other down to the sea in true Italian fashion, where they would generate a large puff of steam for a surprisingly long time. Sometimes the lava boulders broke up into smaller rocks, and when that happened you could see the red hot inside. Everywhere where the lava would touch the mountain, a puff of smoke would be emitted. From the caldera, the lava flow down could be seen, as well as a mushroom like white cloud.

It is funny the ancients took Vulcan as home of the god of Fire. While I am very grateful for this³. However, Stromboli is infinitely more impressive than Vulcano. Where at Stromboli real action is going on, and the fiery lava can be seen on a daily basis, this is not the case for Vulcano. Vulcano is so tame, that you can walk into the crater. The only thing Vulcano has going for it is the stench and the allegedly healthy mud baths. Perhaps the priest at the time, appreciated a good mud bath too.

A while later, we met a lovely Turkish couple, cruising on their swish Halberg Rassey. They happened to be anchored at the same spot as us, and with the same wind direction. When they where there, Stromboli went through a minor eruption, and the next day, they found all of the boat covered in volcanic ash. Perhaps the worries were not unfounded after all.

1It hasn't exploded in the last centuries, but the longer it doesn't blow its cap off, the more likely it will happen.

2Perhaps more, but I lost count.

3Somehow “Vulcano” is more fitting for a mountain full of lava, than simply “Stromboli”. Can you imagine if all volcano's where called Stromboli's instead?

Our anchorage at the safe side of Stromboli

Lava running down the mountain

Swimming in front of the Stromboli Lava flow

The black beaches of Stromboli

The other anchorage at Stromboli was much wavier, but also busier.

Stromboli with it's smoke plume

We could see Stromboli for most of the day, on our way to Capri. Fortunately SaltyPaws left with a clean deck, and Excalibur not stuck in solidified lava.

Top 10 differences between Greece and Italy from a cruising perspective

Since antiquity, the Greece and Romans have been buddies. They have shared the same belief system¹, values and geographic area. However, after cruising the two areas, we found they have some striking differences. Here are the 10 ten most striking:

1. Cats in Greece are many, and ill fed. Cats in Italy are few and well fed.

   

   Well fed cat in Salina, Italy

   
   
2. From a culinary point of view, the Greeks have the unbeatable Greek salad, Greek yogurt & honey, and baklava going for them. That is a good score, but pales in comparison to the Italian kitchen.

   

   There may be culinary differences, but the fruit is great is both countries!

   
   
3. The Greeks had Milena to get the wine making process just right. If they keep going at this rate, they may just be producing drinkable liquid by 9999. Do I need to say anything about the Italian wines?
4. Whereas many Italians sail their boats in both Greece and Italy, very few Greeks sail this area. The main nationality encountered in Italy is Italians and French. In Greece boats tend to be more cosmopolitan.
5. The Italian man is on average the shortest in Europe. To make up for the vertical deficit, they tend to favor horsepower, and lots of it. Not for nothing is Italy the home of Ferrari. Horsepower is naturally the most important factor for an Italian when purchasing a new boat. In order not to waste so much good horsepower, the Italians make it a competition who can pull away fastest and make the highest waves in a field of moored boats.

   

   Super Yachts. More feet does not equal more fun. In fact, once you got space for the heli-pad, swimming pool and jacuzzi, why would you need bigger?

   
   
6. Greece has hundreds of Islands, making the place more laid back, and also making it easier to find your own anchorage. Italy has far fewer islands, making the area much busier. The few Italian islands also don't have to share the tourist income with hundreds of other islands, making the Italian islands richer.
7. The roads on the Italian islands are actually paved. The same cannot be said fore many kilometers of the Greek islands.
8. Italy has a lot more plastic in the water compared to Greece. Could it be the the Greek care more about the environment?
9. In Greece there are a lot of catamarans. In Italy a lot more motor boats, both speed boiats and super yachts. Some Italians fancy the super yacht mono hulls.
10. T-shirts are optional clothing in Greece, and I was surprised, that people actually get served topless. In Italy the bathing clothes are changed for something nicer to wear in the eavening, while going out into town. I was caught out when we went out in Italy after 2 months of Greece, and I wore my board shorts, and sports t-shirt in Salina.

1First the one with Zeus/Jupiter, and later Christianity

At the fuel pontoon in Lipari

When taking in diesel, I try to avoid small places, where the diesel sits in the tanks longer, and hence there is a better chance of collecting dirty diesel, or worse fuel bugs. I should not have worried about the diesel station at the picturesque Italian island of Lipari, where fresh diesel was being pumped from a fuel tanker. When we arrived at the fuel pontoon, we joined a queue of waiting boats, Italian style. Why can't we all queue like the Brits? To maintain our place in the queue, I had to use SaltyPaws to shield the access points to the area in front if me, reminiscent of the line when waiting for a busy chairlift in a snow covered landscape. There was hardly any wind, and while blocking the boats behind, I still had to leave space for the boats that where fueled up to leave. With a lot of wind, the place would have turned Pandemonium, and would most likely be fun to watch, with a cold beverage at hand, not from your own boat. Also in Italian fashion a lot more shouting than common sense was applied. Little boats insisted on taking the inside space, while you are prepared to throw the mooring line. The good thing is, that while a lot of shouting was involved, the Italians like their shiny boats too much to use as a battering ram. The two small boats finally gave in, and while the mooring lines where being pulled tight, the small boats grumbling took the outside corner. Of course, the fuss was about a mere 20 meters that they now had to cover in addition. Using the shallow draft of SaltyPaws, the spot I took a spot at the small boat pontoon. The fuel was delivered under high pressure, and while filling up the tanks, we used the water hose to rinse of the deck. Now we just needed to make our way out...

Catamaran in front of the city Lipari

Lipari Citadel

Lunch is being served

Lunch is being served:

• Local cheese, olives and capers from Salina
• Fresh Basil from the Basil plant
• Bread heated up in the oven
• Italian tomatoes and cucumber

Salina - The most expensive marina

Salina is a beautiful and lush island, and set the record as the most expensive marina so far. Would you believe they charge 290 euro for a night? Imagine the suite this would buy you in any decent hotel. Needless to say, we dropped anchor just next to the marina. Just two night in the Marina here would buy you an anchor the like of Excalibur.

Other than the marina quote, We really enjoyed Salina, with its green mountain side, and the long shopping street. We went into one of the local markets, and managed to have the load delivered to our dinghy Italian style, in a little 3 wheeled truck. When driving down the few hundred meter from the shop to the marina, the driver must have forgotten that he was in the trike truck, not a Ferrari. However, from the back of the truck the speed and acceleration felt Ferrari like, and we were very glad we arrived next to the little SaltyPaws.

We finished off our visit to Salina with a very nice Italian pasta

On our way back to the tender with our groceries, Italian style

Excalibur takes a mud bath

Vulcan is the Roman god of fire, and he is believed to reside in the volcano on the Island Vulcan. Volcanoes throughout the world are called after this one island in Italy, home to the Fiery god of fire. Naturally we decided to pay a visit. Upon arrival we were stunned with the natural beauty of the island, and the massive volcano towering over it. As this is Italy in August, the best anchoring bay was filled to the brim. We found and anchor spot in 20 meter of water, 650 meter from the beach, and not quite inside the bay anymore. The anchorage, and the main town of Vulcano cannot be described other than underwhelming. The great Italian cuisine definitely does not feature on this island, with its tourist trappy restaurants. What does feature are snack bars and loud night clubs. You know the god is still there, because next to the ferry terminal, there is a yellowish rock, with a pool of smelly mud. Also, sulphuric gases cause a pungent malodorous stink. Naturally, the wind decided to make a change, and we where facing 4 Beaufort with fetch all the way to Sardinia. We decided to move to the other side of the island, where there was a well sheltered bay with with the current wind. However, this bay was full of a swell from the other side. In other words, the island, with its two bays on diametrically opposite side could not provide the shelter we where looking for. Also we were now anchored right next to the mud baths, and slowly the stink pervaded throughout our boat. It took us some steaming with all hatches open.

Throughout the night Excalibur was soaking in the rich mud, next to the little vulcano. I just touched the anchor chain a few times, and this was enough to perfuse the smell on my hands. The smell is mostly gone now, but I swear that sometimes I can still catch a whiff. At least Excalibur had a good time on the island of Volcano. I for one preferred our anchorage the night before, on a good clean sandy beach, with just a minor storm gusting over the deck up to 8 Beaufort.

Panorama of Vulcano island

In the morning there was no wind at all. Every boat was pointed in a different direction, and altogether too close for comfort.

The cone, oozing mud and oodles of stink.

Crossing the straight of Messina, the aftermath.

51.4 knots!

Crossing the dreaded straight of Messina was easy. However, as we went through the straight the wind build from just a few knots to a steady 46 knots. That is 1 to 9 Beaufort, in the span of 3 hours. Needless to say that the anchorage just downwind the straight, which had looked very nice if we would have the predicted 3 Beaufort would be untenable now.

The blow set a new record, with strongest gust recorded of 51.4 knots, with a good average of 9 Beaufort going. Time to reef! The Genoa had been reefed down to the last reef, just a handkerchief really. Time to reef some more. This time the Bimini top.

SaltyPaws was doing just fine in the 9 Beaufort. On the way to the new anchorage we had selected we spotted a beach with clean sand, downwind a cliff. In no time at all we had Excalibur down in 5 meters of very nice clean sand, connected to 50 meter of chain. On anchor, the average wind had significantly dropped. However the wind was gusting between 3 and 8 Beaufort. Now is not the time to worry about whether the anchor is big enough. With the knowledge of Excalibur holding in an unbreakable grip, and the anchor alarm on, just in case¹ we had a very good sleep. Any dragging, our failure of the anchor system would have blown us out to sea, where we would have plenty of time to recover.

Excalibur withstood the test, and by some time I woke up and the wind had calmed down to a steady 2-3 Beaufort. We set sail in the morning in a very smooth and calm sea. I checked the bridle, and while it has stretched some, I deem it fit for one more storm anchoring session. We did not know at this time, but this one would soon come.

1It is not Excalibur I am worried about relinquishing his death grip. I am more worried about the bridle rope breaking, or some of the pins of the harps coming undone.

The dreaded straight of Messina.

Entering the straight of Messina after our crossing from Corfu, Greece. Notice how flat the sea is at this point.

Road on the mainland shore

A myriad off ferries crossing our path

Container ship next to an electricity pylon. The pylons do not serve a purpose anymore, today, but have been declared a national monument.

In the famous journey that Odysseus took on his way home, from a long battle of Troy, he went to visit most of the Med. The monsters Scylla and Charybdis that he needed to face are probably premised on the dreaded straight of Messina, the little straight between Sicily and the main land. Notice the phonetic similarity between Sicily and the monster Scylla. Apparently the straight was narrower in antiquity, and in any case, any straight with strong winds that needs to be braved without the engine can turn out to be very dangerous indeed. In preparing our trip, we have not been looking forward to the crossing of the straight, as the prevailing wind is against our direction of travel, unpredictable eddies have been reported, an a dense shipping traffic.

However, our crossing through the straight turned out very un Homer like. When we arrived at the straight of Messsina, we found we had favorable condition's, and decided to cross straight away.

With wind and current in the back, and very little in the way of shipping traffic we breezed through. And as a good omen, we saw a dolphin in the middle of the straight.

The current through the straight can be over 2 knots. However, there is always a counter-current, and hence you can always use the current to your benefit. When the main current is through the straight, the counter current is close to the edges (less than 500 meters from the sides). Fortunately the straight of Messina is quite deep, even very close to the shore. This means that when the current is with you (which we had for most of the crossing) you want to be inside the official shipping lane, following the direction of traffic. When the current turns, you want to hug the edges to catch the counter current, and this has the added benefit of the fact that no tankers¹ go this close to shore².

When we entered, there was hardly any wind, and we had to run the engine. The more we proceeded into the straight, the more the waves and the whitecaps were building. There is nothing wrong with waves and whitecaps, as long as they are experienced in the back. Soon no wind at all became 5 Beaufort, and just on the genoa we were running a steady 6 knots over ground. As the wind kept picking up, so did our speed over ground. The target is to be on anchor at Marina Grande di Scilla, at 1600, as the current changes at this time.

As per usual Italian custom, the official procedure is a bit vague, and one can be fined for not calling in with the port authorities, even if the website of said authorities mention that checking in is not required for vessels under 45 meter. Since the fines reported are 2000 euro, we decided to check in via a simple phone call. A very friendly official told us about the currents of the day, and at which point to check in again via VHF. The ferries that we saw were closely spaced, close up, and clearly outnumbering us. However, we never had to stop or move out of the way for a ferry. Perhaps the traffic control was so kind to arrange this?

Other than the ferrys, ferrying people and whatnot from the mainland to Sicily and back, and perpendicular to our course, we didn't encounter much traffic. A container ship, a warship and a superyacht, all going in the opposite direction.

Whereas the crossing through the Messina straight went easy as the proverbial pie, the same cannot be said about what followed next. Stay tuned for part 2 featuring the strongest wind SaltyPaws has faced yet.

1I consider any big industrial vessel a “Tanker”. By the time you can see the function of the ship, you are too close for your own benefit. The same hold true for navigation lights of Tankers, when you can see the Red/Greed color of the navigation lights your are too close. The colors usually begin to show at around 2 and a half nautical mile. Cruise ships are exempt from the tanker rule, as they are lit up like the busy shopping and entertainment area that they are. Usually these lights overpower the navigational lights until you are very close indeed.

2And if they do, you better make sure you are nowhere near, as there is no good reason to end up as a footnote in a major news item.