The dark side of Stromboli

Yes, SaltyPaws is actually approaching an active volcano

Stromboli is a sight to behold, and it is written in all tourist guides, so it must be true. We found a good anchorage, and while the chain was in some large volcanic boulders, Excalibur was snugly dug in, as confirmed by a snorkel over. This also confirmed that there was currently no lava flow in the area. Even a trip line would have a hard time pulling up Excalibur, once covered by black solid lava.

Where we anchored, the waves and swell where low, and the wind subsided to just a few knots. While these are the conditions that you would like at an anchorage, I could not sleep very well this night. The beauty raved about in the brochures is there, brochures do not write about is that sleeping so close to molten lava, in a volcano that could conceivably erupt at any moment¹ is somewhat unnerving. The anchorage was far away from civilization, and this was one of the few times that the land was completely dark. Somehow a black volcano can look a shade darker than ordinary dark. A million stars where visible² from the deck, however, without the moon, these failed to illuminate the night.

Earlier in the day we used the little SaltyPaws to make a round around Stromboli, and we paused at the side where the lava comes streaming down. From a safe distance, and in the refreshing azure water, we watched new land being formed, one rock at a time. The lava would come down the steep cliff like a thick honey, but slower, and leaving a trail of smoke. At some point, the lava would cool enough as to loose its stickiness, and would then from large boulders. these rocks would race each other down to the sea in true Italian fashion, where they would generate a large puff of steam for a surprisingly long time. Sometimes the lava boulders broke up into smaller rocks, and when that happened you could see the red hot inside. Everywhere where the lava would touch the mountain, a puff of smoke would be emitted. From the caldera, the lava flow down could be seen, as well as a mushroom like white cloud.

It is funny the ancients took Vulcan as home of the god of Fire. While I am very grateful for this³. However, Stromboli is infinitely more impressive than Vulcano. Where at Stromboli real action is going on, and the fiery lava can be seen on a daily basis, this is not the case for Vulcano. Vulcano is so tame, that you can walk into the crater. The only thing Vulcano has going for it is the stench and the allegedly healthy mud baths. Perhaps the priest at the time, appreciated a good mud bath too.

A while later, we met a lovely Turkish couple, cruising on their swish Halberg Rassey. They happened to be anchored at the same spot as us, and with the same wind direction. When they where there, Stromboli went through a minor eruption, and the next day, they found all of the boat covered in volcanic ash. Perhaps the worries were not unfounded after all.

1It hasn't exploded in the last centuries, but the longer it doesn't blow its cap off, the more likely it will happen.

2Perhaps more, but I lost count.

3Somehow “Vulcano” is more fitting for a mountain full of lava, than simply “Stromboli”. Can you imagine if all volcano's where called Stromboli's instead?

Our anchorage at the safe side of Stromboli

Lava running down the mountain

Swimming in front of the Stromboli Lava flow

The black beaches of Stromboli

The other anchorage at Stromboli was much wavier, but also busier.

Stromboli with it's smoke plume

We could see Stromboli for most of the day, on our way to Capri. Fortunately SaltyPaws left with a clean deck, and Excalibur not stuck in solidified lava.